In fact, many gyms require that you tie in with the Trace-Eight, and they will make you take a test to guarantee that you can tie it correctly. You’ll use this knot to tie in to the rope, both for leading and toproping. To Climb in a gym you just need to know one knot, the Trace-Eight. Secure the tail with half of a Double Fisherman’s knot, or an overhand. Simply tie a figure eight knot in the standing portion of the rope about 24 to 30 inches from the end, then reverse weave the end of the rope backwards through the knot as shown, being certain to leave a 12- inch tail. Practice this knot until you can tie it, rain or shine, in the dark. Consider this a small price to pay for security. Unfortunately, it cinches up tight after a hard fall, making it difficult to untie. Your tie-in knot, the one that connects you to the end of the rope, is the knot to learn first, and is the only knot you’ll use every time you rope up. Climbers use various knots to tie in, but the Trace-Eight is the easiest to learn and the least likely to untie itself. The Trace-Eight (or Trace Figure-Eight Knot) There is no substitute for hands-on experience taught by an expert. Read it, then partner with a mentor or get professional instruction from a certified guide, or enroll in a climbing class at your school. This article is just an introduction to knots. I learned to climb on my own by trial and error, studying magazine photos and reading what few how-to books existed back in the day. Even so, when you climb you can and probably will find yourself in situations, predicaments even, where these knowing these knots will save the day. My favorite, T he Ashley Book of Knots has nearly 4,000 knots, but you can get started with just seven the basics: the Trace Eight aka Trace Figure-Eight Knot, Ring Bend, Prusik, Figure-Eight On a Bight, Munter Hitch, Double Fisherman’s, and Girth Hitch-I’ve never been in a situation where I needed to know more than these seven, although I do know quite a few more “just in case.” Gym/Indoor climbers will hearten to know that they really just need to learn one knot, the Trace Eight, the knot most climbing gyms require you to use for tying the rope to your harness.Įven my seven recommended knots might be too many to get you started-you might never use the Munter Hitch or Prusik (neither is a knot by technical definition, but I digress), which come play more for traditional climbing than sport climbing. Of course, since those early climbing days, climbing and climbing knots, have evolved to better meet climbing’s demands.Įntire books have been written on knots. When I started climbing in 1973 climbers used four basic knots, the Double Bowline, Ring Bend, Prusik, and Clove Hitch, and those got me by for over a decade. Still, don’t tie yourself in knots with worry. There are hundreds of types of knots you can use for climbing-entire books have been written on knots-so taking the step to learn them can be daunting. Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members!īeing able to properly tie climbing knots is an essential skill every climber regardless of experience or ability must not only learn but master.
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